Monday, June 3, 2013

4 Hour Rhubarb coffee cake


January 12, 2013

We had a regional meeting for all the volunteers in my district and our neighboring district. I traveled the couple of hours to our nearest town and we met at the home of a third year volunteer who is in the town. A bunch of people were picking up care packages, so I scored a bunch of cast-off items like dried fruits, crayons and candy.

After the meeting we were celebrating two birthdays so we went for a late lunch and some beers. I had to run some errands in town and wasted about an hour scouring markets and shops looking for items that couldn’t be found. Really small tubing, a really big funnel and strainer to match. I guess that was too much to ask for in my town. Back to the restaurant. I was glad that the older volunteers had formed strong relationships with the owner at this restaurant because he treated everyone to a free round of beers to celebrate the birthdays.

Later that night we went down to a lakeside bar. None of the moto drivers were able to give us an honest price, so someone in our group arranged an alternate ride. The bar was crowded and it seemed that there was a wedding reception going on in the big green lawn, but we were still welcome. I kept trying to rally our group to go swimming, since we were right next to the water. Someone in our group tried to walk on the trail down to the lake. Suddenly she was stopped by three soldiers who appeared out of nowhere and sent her back. It was a quick reminder that we were still just a few hundred meters from the Congo, and security was a big issue.

Late in the night when we finally decided to head back, the moto drivers were being extortionists. I said my price and when they refused, I told Luke we needed to just walk away. I was sure they would call us back. We kept walking and heard nothing. I guess there were enough of us to keep the prices high. Suddenly I realized we were about to make a long trek uphill back to the hotel. It was pitch black on the road, but we had a great view of Lake Kivu, and the lights of Bukavu, Congo. About halfway back a car and a moto zoomed past us, stopped, then drove off. I didn’t think anything of it, until, suddenly one of our fellow volunteers, who we had met that day, came running towards us. I am still unclear on what exactly had happened but he had been kicked out of the car he was in. We started to walk together, and eventually another taxi came by. We flagged it down. I started to negotiate the price but it was ridiculous. I was about to send him away, but this other volunteer  jumped in and started talking to the driver. Suddenly the ride was free. I’m still unclear on what that was all about. It was a weird night, but fun.

The next day we had breakfast tea at a little tucked away café with triangle shaped candles and lots of bees. On Sunday morning, this little Muslim-owned café was the only thing opened and it had a lot of character. After that, I wanted to get people to go swimming, but nobody was interested. Someday. I remembered that this was why I usually didn’t like doing things in groups. I need to learn how to re-detach myself here and be a little more independent when I need to be.

At the bus station I picked up a small package that a fellow volunteer had sent me. The bus companies act as domestic post offices here. The package was the champagne yeast that I had had sent to her house when she was visiting America. Now, just in time for the end of mango season I had the key ingredient.

The next day I taught my classes, then spent the evening brewing a big batch of mango wine. I had about 40 mangos and almost nine pounds of sugar. I found it odd that nobody found it odd how many mangos and bags of sugar I would buy. I guess they were just happy for business. It was a very busy night, peeling and pitting mangos, mashing mangos, and boiling water and sugar. I had two buckets of must (fermenting fruit) amounting to almost 20 liters. I don’t know what I’ll do with it all, but I hope I get a lot of visitors to help me with it.

I had heard of volunteers in Cameroon doing beer-brewing projects where they would set up a co-op for disadvantaged women to make local beer. It sounded cool, but I really don’t think it is the right kind of project for Rwanda. Cameroonians, it seems, are great at drinking beer. The jury (Joey) is still out on Rwandans.            

On one of my visits to Mama Jeanette’s house, I found her and Jeanette working with corn. They were sitting among a huge pile of it, which they had just harvested, and were removing the kernels from the cob. I sat down and started helping. It was tricky at first, but I eventually got the hang of it. They told me my fingers would be too weak. I laughed and said I had strong fingers. They knew better. After thirty minutes, I had broken blisters on both my thumbs. I laughed it off, but those wounds would be incredibly obtrusive and painful for days. Mama Jeanette gave me a corn cob, which was actually useful to remove the corn from the other cobs.

The next day I went up to visit a couple of volunteers that live not too far from me. One of them wanted to borrow my tent, and I wanted to borrow some rhubarb. One of the volunteers lives with nuns, and they grow rhubarb and make jam out of it. When I arrived, I was invited to lunch with the nuns. This was a real treat. It was Rwandan food, but prepared with a lot more care than is typical. It was a refreshing meal, plus the nuns gave me and the volunteer, Claire some beer with our lunch. Most of the people I know in my town are against drinking, but here I was being served a mid-day beer from middle-aged women of the cloth. I don’t know if I would want to live with nuns for two years, but it had a lot of perks. Their gardens were incredible. A large portion of their food came from their own gardens. When I saw their banana trees, I joked that they were brewing their own banana beer. Turns out this was exactly the case. Claire had made some delicious banana bread and gave me a small loaf along with a generous bag of rhubarb.

We walked over to the other volunteer’s village just down the trail. We found him in his classroom watching music videos on his laptop with his students. This seemed to be a common thing for him to do in his spare time. He basically lived on the school grounds, so he was very well-connected with it.

Then it was time for me to head home. Two days later, I made my rhubarb jam. It was delicious, but could have had a little more of that rhubarb tang. Maybe too much sugar. It is difficult to measure when you have nothing to measure with. I came out with two jars. I didn’t actually have any free jars, so I had to put them in plastic containers. Luckily there is enough sugar so it won’t go bad too quickly. I am writing this three weeks later, and it is still looking good.

That night I decided to make one of my favorite things in the world: rhubarb coffee cake. It is the kind of thing that I preach against. Striving for those nostalgic foods, when you don’t have the capacity to do it right, and you have more practical things right in front of you. Well, I had come up on some rhubarb, and I couldn’t help but try. I knew it could never compare to Mama’s. I used the so-called “Peace Corps oven”. It is basically using a big pot with sand in the bottom on a charcoal stove. I have a huge 15-liter pot that I use for this. I put the batter in a rubber bread mold (which I am still shocked that I actually bought) and set it on empty tomato paste cans in the pot. There was too much batter for the mold to hold. With just a little bit of heat, it started to collapse, spilling about a third of the batter onto the sand below. It was slow-going. At 11:30 at night, after four hours of cooking, I gave up. It was kind of done, but not really. It was a very firm goo. It was five or six hours of my time that I spent to learn, once again, that I am a terrible baker. I like my cooking, but I can’t think of a single time where I have been happy with something I have baked. The coffee cake, provided about three days worth of occasional picking and snacking, then feeling terrible about myself. Gooey baked goods, somehow, feel much less healthy. It is like you can really feel all the butter and sugar in the most real way.

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